ANAGO

What Is Anago?

Anago (穴子) is the Japanese name commonly used for conger eel. One of the main species used in Japanese sushi is Conger myriaster, also known as the Whitespotted Conger.

It is a long, slender fish that lives in coastal marine waters, often hiding in sandy or muddy areas.

Anago has pale flesh and a relatively delicate flavour. When properly cooked, the meat becomes tender while retaining a light sweetness.

Unlike many fish used for Nigiri, Anago is traditionally served cooked.

Anago vs Unagi

Anago and Unagi are both eels, but they are different fish.

Anago (穴子) is a marine conger eel. It belongs to the Congridae family.

Unagi (鰻) usually refers to freshwater eels of the genus Anguilla, particularly Japanese eel (Anguilla japonica). Despite the name freshwater eel, Unagi can live in rivers, estuaries and coastal waters during its life cycle.

The biggest difference for a sushi chef is how they eat.

Anago has a lighter flavour and generally less fat. Its flesh becomes soft and delicate when simmered.

Unagi is usually richer and fattier. It is commonly grilled with a sweet soy-based sauce, especially in dishes such as Unagi Kabayaki.

Both can be served as sushi, but they create very different eating experiences.

Why Is Anago Common in Omakase?

Anago has a long connection with Edomae sushi.

In the Edo period, seafood from Tokyo Bay played an important role in the development of sushi. Anago was one of the ingredients traditionally caught in these waters.

Today, it remains a familiar part of traditional Edomae-style Omakase menus.

Anago is often simmered until tender and finished with a sweet soy-based sauce known as Tsume.

The sauce is usually applied just before serving. It adds depth without completely covering the natural flavour of the eel.

Unagi is also served in sushi restaurants, but its stronger flavour and richer texture are more commonly associated with grilled eel preparations.

This is one reason Anago is often preferred in traditional Edomae Omakase.

The Skill of Opening Anago

One of the most challenging parts of preparing Anago is opening the fish.

In Japanese kitchens, this process is known as Hiraki (開き).

Anago has a long body with delicate flesh and a backbone running through its length. The chef must guide the knife closely along the bones while keeping the flesh intact.

Unlike filleting a larger round fish, opening Anago requires continuous control over a long, narrow cut.

The fish is slippery, and the body can move easily while being handled. Even a small mistake can damage the flesh or leave too much meat attached to the bones.

In traditional preparation, a specialised eel knife may be used, and the fish can be secured to the cutting board with a spike or pin.

The opening method can vary depending on the region and kitchen tradition.

For a chef learning this technique, accuracy matters more than speed.

A properly opened Anago should have an even shape and minimal damage to the flesh.

Cooking Anago for Sushi

After opening and cleaning, Anago is usually simmered in a seasoned liquid.

The cooking liquid commonly contains soy sauce, sake and sugar, although recipes vary between sushi restaurants.

The goal is to cook the fish until it becomes tender without allowing it to fall apart.

This requires careful control because Anago has delicate flesh.

Once cooked, the fish is handled gently to preserve its shape.

The cooking liquid may also be reduced and developed into Tsume, the traditional sauce brushed over Anago Nigiri.

Some restaurants use their own established sauce recipes that are maintained and adjusted over time.

Anago Nigiri

Anago Nigiri is usually served warm or at a temperature that allows the flesh to remain soft and pleasant to eat.

Unlike raw fish Nigiri, the texture is extremely tender.

The sushi rice provides structure beneath the delicate eel, while a small amount of Tsume adds sweetness and savoury depth.

The balance is important. Too much sauce can hide the flavour of the fish.

Some chefs serve Anago with a little salt instead of Tsume to highlight its natural taste.

Both approaches can work depending on the style of the restaurant.

Understanding Anago as a Sushi Chef

For me, Anago is an ingredient that shows the importance of knife skills.

The final Nigiri may look simple, but a great deal of work happens before the fish reaches the sushi counter.

Opening the fish cleanly is one of the most demanding stages. You need to understand the position of the bones and maintain control of the knife throughout the cut.

Cooking requires the same level of attention. Anago should be tender, but it still needs enough structure to be handled and served.

I think it is an ingredient that rewards patience and practice.

Take This to Your Next Shift

When learning to prepare Anago, focus on understanding its anatomy before trying to work quickly.

Pay attention to the angle of your knife and how closely it follows the backbone.

A clean opening makes the next stages of preparation much easier. The quality of Anago Nigiri begins long before the fish is cooked.